Week 35 - ארוחת בוקר - Israel

MATZO BREI

Matzo Brei is a simple breakfast made by frying Matzo (a thin cracker-like unleavened bread) with egg.  Similar to French Toast, Pain Perdu and Torrijas in execution, Matzo Brei is normally served during the Jewish holiday of Passover. (During this holiday all leavened grains are forbidden.)

You don't have to search very far to find people claiming to have the "definitive" Matzo Brei recipe on-line.  As an easy home recipe, Matzo Brei is the kind of comfort food that has thousands of variations - each of which is "the best".

Matzo Brei can be served sweet with cinnamon sugar or savoury with garlic and onions.  It also can be made with a wet consistency that almost resembles a Fritatta or it can be made more on the dry side.  We made sweet of course, (cause that's how we roll) but check out this video where renowned architect Frank Gehry talks about his preference:

After Torrijas, Matzo Brei (as prepared by me) just didn't compare.  I found it dry and lacking in flavour and upon taking a bite Jon pondered, "maybe you made it wrong?"  The truth is that maybe I did.  Maybe our preferred Matzo Brei is savoury, or maybe we would've liked it with more egg.  In any case, a recipe as popular Matzo Brei absolutely deserves another shot.

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

Matzo Brei rivals Hagelslag in simplicity.  From start to finish in under ten minutes.

For Degree of Separation:

For Guestability:

A tricky call.  As primarily a holiday breakfast, Matzo Brei seems fancy enough for guests.  And yet there is a certain austerity to it that makes me hesitate to serve it to guests.

For Sustainability:

For Costability:

At it's barest minimum Matzo Brei requires only three ingredients!  Matzo, eggs, and some kind of fat to fry it in.  Beyond which, part of Matzo Brei's charm is that it was partially developed as a way to use up extra Matzo during and after Passover - extra points for being economical.

For Overall Appeal:

I'd try Matzo Brei again.  I'd be especially interested to try it made by somebody with more cred.  So here's an open invitation - does anybody have an amazing Matzo Brei recipe they'd love to share?  (Or better yet make.)  Was your Bubbe the Matzo Brei master?  How do you like your Matzo Brei?  Let me know....

Next week we go old school as we look into what my Ukrainian ancestors ate.  Will it be delicious?

Week 33 - Desayuno - Venezuela

AREPAS CON PERICO

In case it isn't obvious, I love exploring food traditions and histories of various cultures.  Venezuela is a country that until now had escaped my attention... but no longer!

If you had to sum up Venezuelan cuisine with just one dish it would be the Arepa.  Arepas can be eaten anytime of day, as a snack or a meal and are a unique food to this part of the world.  Although they are also enjoyed in Colombia and to a certain extent in a few other Latin American countries, Arepas are most often associated with Venezuela.

Arepas are basically small buns made of special cornmeal (white P.A.N. is the most common brand).  They can be grilled, baked, steamed, boiled, etc. but are usually fried on a heavy cast iron-like pan before being split open and stuffed.  Fillings range from meat to seafood to cheese to strictly vegetables.

For my first Venezuelan breakfast I chose to stuff my Arepa with Perico, a colourful scrambled egg dish.  Perico means "parakeet" or "parrot" in Spanish and is an apt name for the mix of tomatoes, eggs, onions, and cilantro that make up this Caribbean version of scrambled eggs.  Garnished with some Guasacaca (Venezuelas irresistible vinegary cousine to Guacamole), Arepa con Perico certainly lived up to it's namesake!

The Arepa itself was quite bland but I found it pleasing in texture with a soft middle and crisp outer layer.  And really the Arepa is a vessel for what goes inside.  In this case the Huevos Perico and Guasacaca with Quesa Fresca (unriped soft white cheese) did not disappoint.  The Egg lent meaty substance, the avocado a lxurious creaminess and the vinegar and garlic cut through with a one-two flavour knockout.

What I find most interesting about Arepas is that they're not more well-known around the world.  They really are a perfect blank-slate for experimentation and since the modern version uses pre-cooked cornmeal and very few other ingredients they are extremely easy to make.  Like the cupcake, taco, and donut before them Arepas scream out to be the world's next food fad!

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

For Degree of Separation:

Were it not for the familiar presence of eggs, Arepa con Perico would get a solid five cheerios in this category.

For Guestability:

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this would be excellent served to guests.  For presentation factor alone this food deserves it's spot on the B & B roster.

For Sustainability:

I feel like I'm gushing, but Arepas really have it all.  Taste, looks, nutrition, you can't go wrong here.

For Costability:

Like many flatbreads, the Arepas themselves are extremely inexpensive.  Cost here varies on what you put inside....

For Overall Appeal:

A Solid four Cheerios.

This meal was hearty enough to wander straight into weeknight supper territory for me and if I was a Vegetarian I would be doing a Tom Cruise couch jump over this versatile new food discovery!

Join me next time as I brave fish sauce and black fungus to discover what's up in Vietnam....

Week 32 - 早餐 - China

CONGEE with YOUTIAO

Congee is a food I've been familiar with for a long time.  There are tons of restaurants across the Toronto area named after this dish and I've seen many a co-worker devour a bowlful for lunch.  But I've got to admit, up until now I've never had any inclination to give it a try.

Besides the foreignness of eating limp rice in the morning, consider its appearance.  As a mass of congealed off-white gruel, congee sure isn't winning any beauty pageants.  Creative sprigs of green from assorted toppings do help, until the spoon goes in and finds the often offensive mystery meat!

So imagine my surprise when despite my trepidation, I discover Congee to be.... amazingly delicious.  Comforting even.

Of course, it helps that this particular Congee was made by me with very little in terms of scary ingredients.  And actually, there are very few ingredients at all that go into Congee - something I'm learning is a plus when cooking a tasty breakfast.

Besides being the breakfast of choice for China, variations on Congee are popular all across Asia.  The recipes vary quite a lot but they all centre around rice that has been cooked to the point of disintegration in many times it's volume in water (8:1 is a common ratio).  Congee doubles as a nutritious meal and a great way to use up left-overs.  It is also commonly seen as an excellent pablum for babies and tonic for the sick.

Congee in China is most often served with Youtiao (seen above).  Here's what Wikipedia had to say about this salty doughnut-like pastry:

The Cantonese name yàuhjagwái literally means "oil-fried devil" and, according to folklore, is an act of protest against Song Dynasty official Qin Hui, who is said to have orchestrated the plot to frame the general Yue Fei, an icon of patriotism in Chinese culture. It is said that the food, originally in the shape of two human-shaped pieces of dough but later evolved into two pieces joined in the middle, represents Qin Hui and his wife, both having a hand in collaborating with the enemy to bring about the great general's demise. Thus the youtiao is deep fried and eaten as if done to the traitorous couple. In keeping with the legend, youtiao are often made as two foot-long rolls of dough joined along the middle, with one roll representing the husband and the other the wife.

Saucy!

I had every ambition of making these at home but a little research showed that these are a bread best left to the pros.  (If you're in Toronto stop by King's Noodle where you can buy Youtiao to go).

The Congee variation I made featured a healthy dose of ginger and chicken.  The texture was smooth and far from being exotic, the flavour was rich and familiar.  It had all the goodness of home-made Chicken Soup with the soothing "stick to your ribs" heartiness of Oatmeal.  I liked it so much that I ate it for a good five days afterwards.

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

At it's easiest, Congee is as simple as boiling together water and rice.  With just a little additional effort it can become worth getting up for.

For Degree of Separation:

For Guestability:

For Sustainability:

For Costability:

Traditionally Congee has also been used to feed many people with little food.

For Overall Appeal:

Congee caught me by surprise and I am delighted.  I guess I should've known that several billion people couldn't be that wrong....

For next week, I leave you with a riddle.  What food is both a vegetable, starch and sandwich casing all at once?

Week 31 - Argentina

MEDIALUNA

In Argentina the overwhelming breakfast favourite is the celestially named Medialuna.   If you haven't been to Argentina just know that as the Croissant is to France, so the Medialuna is to Argentina.

Smaller than their cousin the Croissant, Medialuna come in two forms - the Medialuna de Manteca (which is made with butter and glazed with a simple syrup called Almibar) and the Medialuna de Grasa (which is made with butter and lard and isn't always sweet).  As a butter and sugar lover the choice here seemed clear.  So follow along as I attempt the Medialuna de Manteca....

The Medialuna de Manteca, like the croissant, is made from a yeast-dough that through a series of folds is layered with an abundant amount of butter.  This process takes several hours and creates something called laminated dough.

Hands up, who has attempted to make laminated dough from scratch?

No one?

I'm not surprised.  Although it has long been on my list of culinary adventures to try at home, the idea of creating all those glorious flaky, buttery layers by hand has intimidated me for years.  But for the sake of this blog and with some very generous encouragement from my colleagues at the bakery, I persevered and am here to tell you that it's really not that hard!  And more than that, it is infinitely rewarding.

The process is really quite simple.  After mixing together and rolling out your dough, you create a butter block (which looks exactly like it sounds) that is just under half the area of your dough.  Then working carefully, you wrap the butter block with the dough until it is completely covered.  You roll this new dough out and fold it in three like a business letter - this is called a "turn".  There are typically three turns in a recipe.

After all this work (which takes a long time because the dough needs to rest between each step) you are left with a beautiful dough that has been carefully layered with 81 layers of butter and pastry!

All this may seem like too much effort before breakfast, and it is.  The good news is that Medialuna dough can, and should, be made ahead.  You can make it the evening before or even make it and freeze it up to three months in advance.  In the morning all you have to do is shape it into it's characteristic "half moon" shape and pop it in the oven.

Medialunas were like their moniker - heavenly.  They smelled fantastic baking in the oven and tasted just as good as you'd imagine 81 layers of fresh baked bread and butter to be.  They had a gentle flake on the outside and the inside was slightly chewy.  The Almibar added a welcome sweetness and the whole pastry oozed with buttery goodness.

Now, it should be noted that I don't think most people in Argentina are baking these fresh every morning at home.  Like France or Italy, this country has a vibrant cafe culture and I can just imagine Argentinians stopping by the local cafe for a Cafe con Leche and a few Medialuna before starting their workday or heading to the beach....

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

These were way easier than I expected, but they did take about 12 hours to make.

For Degree of Separation:

For Guestability:

We actually had the pleasure of serving these to some guests, perhaps they would like to weigh in here....?

For Sustainability:

This may not be fair, as we did polish off at least 4 each....

For Costability:

For Overall Appeal:

I think that you can tell that I loved the Medialuna.  They were as much fun to make as to eat.   Not to mention that between their evocative name, taste and origins there is a certain romance about them.

For something completely different stay tuned as we try perhaps the world's most popular breakfast food - Congee.

Week 29 - Kwizija - Bosnia and Herzegovina

BUREK

It seems the world is rediscovering the Balkans as a beautiful and inexpensive tourist choice these days.  A friend who recently went to visit, extolled it's virtues and when asked if they had any exceptional food didn't hesitate to answer, "Burek."


Bosnian Burek is a puff pastry made with ground meat, onions, and a touch of paprika.  It's artfully swirled into a spiral shape and served warm with yoghurt.
 They are primarily a street food and are found in specific bakeries called Burekdžnica. 


Versions of Burek can be found all over Eastern Europe and even into Arabia.  Some versions feature cheese, others vegetables like spinach or squash and yet others have various meat and veggie combos.  You could even say that Bougatsa, from Week 5 - Greek Breakfast (still my favourite breakfast of all time) is a distant relative to the Burek.

Unfortunately there are no Burekdžnica near us in Toronto, so I had to try my hand at this Balkan delicacy.  I was dubious that I would be able to achieve the thin layers of pastry indicated in the recipe, but almost like magic, the dough easily stretched to see-through thinness and was really easy to work with. After making the meat mixture, I rolled it and doused it in copious amounts of butter and oil.  The aroma of it baking in the oven was mouthwatering and worth getting out of bed on a cold March morning...

Altogether, Burek was delightful, especially fresh from the oven.  The pastry although still flaky was a bit more chewy than store-bought phyllo.  For my taste, ground beef is a bit heavy in the morning but the yogurt really helped to lighten it up.

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

Well, maybe I didn't just whip this one up in five minutes, but honest, it wasn't so bad and could totally be made ahead.

For Degree of Separation:

Pretty much anything with meat (that's not bacon) gets five Cheerios in this category.

For Guestability:

Although a bit weird for guests, you gotta admit it's quite impressive looking...

For Sustainability:

For Costability:

For Overall Appeal:

This was perhaps not the most delicious breakfast we've tried, but it was oddly satisfying.  In the future I might bring this back as a supper food.

It seems the Jumbo Breakfast Roll is not the only breakfast food to be immortalized in song!  Check out "Burek" by Bosnian musician Dino Merlin:

Week 28 - Iran - حلیم

HALEEM

Over the past few years I've become quite enamored with Persian cuisine.  With it's abundance of herbs, unique ingredients and sweet and sour flavour combinations it draws me in every time.  So on a recent outing to Khorak Supermarket (my favourite Persian grocery store in Toronto), I was stoked to come across a pre-made container of Haleem, a traditional Persian breakfast often eaten during Ramadan.

I usually prefer to make breakfasts as home, but Haleem although simple in ingredients (wheat and turkey) requires long hours of cooking.  (Before modern kitchen appliances it was simmered all night long in large wood-fired cauldrons.)  In fact, it is such a long process to make that it is tradition to make a huge patch and then go door to door sharing it with your neighbours.  

It's a distant cousin to Khichdi, which you may recall from Week 3: Indian Breakfast.  Basically, it's a thick porridge made from meat (usually turkey) and wheat that is simmered until the texture of both becomes a homogenous mush.  It's   often garnished with clarified butter and cinnamon.

Unfortunately we found this breakfast a little underwhelming.  It was neither sweet or savoury.  The turkey taste was definitely present and so was the sweet cinnamon topping.  Perhaps it's one of those breakfasts you have to grow up with because mainly we just found it confusing.

After mentioning our Haleem experience to some of my co-workers, one of them remarked that she had made some herself that week-end!  She was generous enough to bring in some of her homemade stuff so that I could compare.

Her version was a variation from Ethiopia and was considerably more delicious that the Iranian grocery brand.  Instead of turkey it was made with goat and being from Ethiopia, the cinnamon was replaced with spicy Berbere butter.

The Verdict:

For Ease of Preparation:

For Degree of Separation:

Wheat, cinnamon and turkey are not a combo I ever imagined gracing my breakfast table.

For Guestability:

I imagine if you had guests from Persia they would adore it, but for my family, probably not.

For Sustainability:

Supposedly very calorically dense, this is a stick to your ribs kind of dish.

For Costability:

With a price similar to a box of Cheerios, Haleem was very reasonably priced.

For Overall Appeal:

I really wanted to like Haleem.  Unfortunately, it was just a little too far out of my comfort zone.  As an aside, I would like to urge everyone who hasn't sample Persian cuisine to give it a shot.

Next time - the Balkans!